Frequently asked Questions
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There are two main types of anti-reverse mechanism's, the first type of reel has a anti-reverse pawl that has two very thin copper plates (some have one copper plate) which ride on either side of the anti-reverse cog wheel. Normally these copper pieces get bent or just plain wear out. (replace anti-reverse pawl, requires removing handle side cover) The second type of anti-reverse is a one way bearing inside the drag star. These bearings can wear down or dry out and cause the anti-reverse to stop functioning. (have to pull the cover off to replace either of the above anti-reverse mechanism's.
The most common cause is the line guide pawl. Turn the reel upside down and you will see a cap with a slotted head on the bottom of the line guide assembly, just unscrew this and tap the reel on a hard surface and the pawl will fall out. There are other causes with this problem. With my experience I have found when replacing the pawl also replace the worm gear (Suggestion: If worm gear needs replaced I would suggest that you send the reel to a repair facility.) Also the drive gear on the end of the worm gear can have a tooth or two missing which causes this same problem.
Normally on most models one of a couple of things happen. The first is there are some models with a copper plate inside the brake cap, this piece of copper gets indented or is missing. (Replace) (Also the lack of lubrication causes a problem.) The second thing on quite a few Baitcastor's they have a piece of plastic molded that clamps over the end of the main shaft, this piece either breaks or is missing. The other problem that can occur is that the main shaft is worn and needs replaced. (Recommend sending into a repair facility for the replacement of the main shaft.)
This is caused most of the time by dirt and grit that has got inside the reel. Most reels require cleaning before and after every season. Other problems are bearings or bushings have worn considerably. Main drive and idler gears are stripped, due normally from catching a larger fish then the reel is rated for.
In most cases the reel has not been cleaned by a repair facility in years. Another problem is the customer has lubricated the reel to much, like a lot of grease. (do not use WD40 for some reels, eats up some rubber parts). Also if your reel has a magnetic assembly on the side, this can cause a problem.
This can be a very frustrating problem. I have had bearings/bushings go bad in the covers but the most common problem seems to be drag washers are worn/burnt out. Sometimes even the brake mechanism can cause this problem by heating up and welding to the main shaft.
A couple of things cause this problem. The first and most common is a broken or missing spring on the casting assembly. The second is the casting release assembly is bent or broke, or the anti-reverse wheel is stripped. Another problem is using to much grease, the grease mixes with dirt and causes the release slider assembly not to release.
My bail on my spinning reel will not flip back when reeling?
There are many things that cause this problem and quite a few depend on the manufacturer of the reel. The first thing to look at is the the rotor (the part that has the bail spring on it) where it rides on the body (frame), the body is normally worn down where the bail spring mechanism contacts the body. The second thing is a worn, bent or missing bail return spring. Dirt and grit will also cause the bail spring malfunction.
My drag will not tighten enough to reel in line?
Normally your drag washers are worn and need replaced, but there are other problems that can occur, missing flex or flat washers on baitcastor type models. Bad drag assembly on spinning. Spin-cast will normally have a broken drag (metal tang) assembly inside the reel.
How to clean & lubricate your baitcastor reel?
Take your time and watch closely when disassembling your reel. I know this sounds a little nit-picky but most baitcastor reels have quite a few small washers, screws and springs. On most baitcastors such as Abu you need to start by removing 1. handle 2. thin separator washer 3. drag star, after you remove the drag star watch for the flat and flex washers to possibly fall out. Next take out the two screws more towards the center of the reel. Then remove the three remaining bigger screws around the outside edge. This will allow the outside cover to be removed but it will also loosen the separator plate. Watch for the springs and the main drag shaft not to come off. From there you may remove the separator plate and remove the spool. Switch to the Idler side of the reel and remove all screws holding on the cover. Remove the cap over the line guide pawl next, then remove the clip that holds the line guide assembly in. This is as far as you should take your reel down to clean and lubricate. I prefer to use my own mix of lubricant, ( vaseline and hydraulic fluid mixed well). Wipe clean all parts or if it is real bad I prefer to use Simple Green mix or Greased Lightning mix. Reverse this procedure for re-assembly.
How to clean & lubricate your spinning reel?
On most spinning reels the spool is removed by pressing a button to release it or unscrew the drag knob on the front. Remove the handle by unscrewing the cap on the opposite side or for other models just hold the spool and turn the handle the opposite of reeling in. Then remove the cover screws and be very careful when removing the cover due to springs, gears and washers falling out. When removing the main drive gear watch for the little metal tang on the gear side, this tang fits in the slot of the anti-reverse mechanism. (most models) You may remove the main shaft by removing either a clip that is screwed in or just snapped in. This is as far as you should go to lubricate and clean your spinning reel. I prefer to use my own mix of lubricant, ( vaseline and hydraulic fluid mixed well). Wipe clean all parts or if it is real bad I prefer to use Simple Green mix or Greased Lightning mix. Reverse this procedure for re-assembly.
Advantages of sending your reel to Alabama Reel Repair.
One big advantage is our experience in repairing and maintaining reels. (17 years total) We will disassemble your reel down to bear bones to inspect parts, clean the parts, then lubricate and reassemble the reel. Check all functions of the reel plus a final quality control inspection before being shipped back to you the customer. There is another advantage is when we find a defective part it is much easier for us to either find the part or locate one in our own stock. We warranty the maintenance and repairs for 90 days from the ship date on all work performed.
Rich
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Revised: September 30, 2003